Essential Gear

For Multi-Pitch Routes

  • 70-meter rope (essential - many rappels require it)
  • 14 quickdraws is enough for most pitches; ~26 is ideal if you’re linking pitches
  • 2-3 locking carabiners
  • PAS or daisy chain for anchors
  • Headlamp (for inevitable epics)
  • Small backpack that climbs well
  • Approach shoes (rocky approaches)
  • Sun protection (hat, sunscreen, sun hoodie)
  • 2-3 liters of water per person
  • Energy food
  • Small first aid kit
  • Prusiks for emergency rope ascending
  • Belay puffy for cold days in shady aspects

Cams for Trad Routes

While most routes are sport, some require gear:

  • You can bring a small single rack to fill in runouts / for mixed climbs, but it’s not really needed
  • There are lots of bolted cracks
  • Check the guidebook for route-specific requirements

Multi-Pitch Tips

Rope Management is Critical

On long routes, efficient rope management saves hours:

  • Stack the rope carefully as you belay
  • Practice rappelling systems before attempting big routes

Descent Beta

Most routes descend via rappel:

  • Bring a mallion in case you find sketchy bolts / rap anchors
  • Check every anchor (there are loose bolts out there)
  • Most rap anchors are double bolts or chains—but still inspect everything
  • Know how to escape the belay if needed
  • Simul-rapping can save time, but it adds risk—only do it if you’re fully confident in the system

Start Early

Popular routes can get crowded. Starting at sunrise means:

  • First on the route
  • Cooler temps in the morning
  • Time to bail if things go wrong
  • Back for afternoon beers

Local Knowledge

Grading

Routes tend to be accurately graded, though sandbagging does exist. If you climb 5.11 comfortably, you’ll likely climb 5.11 here - but be prepared for sustained climbing.

Rock Quality

Rock quality is very variable: some routes are bomber, and others can be absolute choss.

  • Be extra careful on rappels — it’s common to knock down a shower of small rocks
  • There have been multiple big rockfalls this season at Mota Wall (fridge- to microwave-sized blocks) — test holds
  • The rock gets sharp — tape up if needed

Weather Patterns

  • Mornings can be cool (~4–10°C [40–50°F] in winter)
  • Days often warm up to ~21–27°C [70–80°F]
  • Wind can pick up in afternoon
  • Rain is rare but happens
  • Check weather before big routes

Social Scene

Sharing Beta

The community is friendly - don’t hesitate to:

  • Ask about route conditions
  • Share your beta at the campfire
  • Offer to combine parties on busy routes
  • Help newcomers with descent beta

Hiring Guides

Several local guides operate in the canyon:

  • Great for first-timers
  • Learn the descent routes safely
  • Get insider beta on conditions
  • Support the local economy

Typical rates: $150-200/day for private guiding

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  1. Underestimating approaches: They’re longer than they look
  2. Not bringing enough water: You’ll need more than you think
  3. Skipping warm-ups: Jump on big routes cold and pay the price
  4. Ignoring rest days: The climbing is sustained - rest is crucial
  5. Leaving too late: Starting at 10am means you’re climbing in full sun

Phone & Internet

For current cell/WiFi details, see src/content/destinations/el-potrero-chico/logistics.md.