El Potrero Chico (EPC) is famous for its extensive limestone sport climbing, offering hundreds of bolted routes from beginner (5.7) to advanced (5.13+) across single and multi-pitch climbs, with classics like Estrellita, Yankee Clipper, El Sendero Luminoso, and Time Wave Zero, alongside popular walls like Mota Wall for easier climbs and The Surf for overhanging routes — all set in a vibrant climbing community in Hidalgo, Mexico.

  • Estrellita (5.10b, 12 pitches): A legendary route in the canyon.
  • Yankee Clipper (5.10b, 14 pitches): Another iconic, long adventure. (Optional 5.12a pitch)
  • El Sendero Luminoso (5.12+, 15 pitches): A challenging and popular climb.
  • Time Wave Zero (22 pitches): One of the longest routes in the area.
  • Supernova (5.11a, 8 pitches): A classic found at Club Mex.
  • Virgin Canyon: The most popular single-pitch zone in the canyon, with tons of options across grades.
  • Mota Wall (Lower Sense of Religion): Great for moderate climbs like “La Vaca” and “Double Cherry Pie”, with easy access.
  • The Surf / Outrage Wall: Known for steep, overhanging tufas and harder grades (5.12a–5.13b).
  • Club Mex: Features hard single pitches and “Supernova.”
  • The Spires (Las Agujas): Popular twin rock formations with many routes.

Route Styles & Grades

  • Rock type: Limestone — slabby faces, vertical walls, and steep/overhanging sections, with small polished footholds and smears showing up more at harder grades.
  • Grades: 5.7 to 5.14+, with many classics in the 5.9–5.11 range.
  • Bolting: Nearly all routes are sport-bolted with stainless steel hardware, making EPC a premier sport destination.

Finding Routes & Information

  • A guidebook is strongly recommended (and widely available locally).
  • Cross-reference with Mountain Project / The Crag for recent comments and conditions.